Book Review - “The Encyclopedia of Natural Pet Care”

Sarah’s Book Review

Book

The Encyclopedia of Natural Pet Care

Category

Natural Care

Brief Summary

CJ Puotinen focuses on the most helpful, effective and widely practiced therapies in holistic pet care. Based on interviews with leading practitioners, this user-friendly book discusses the particulars of nutrition, supplements, herbs, aromatherapy, homeopathy, flower essences, and hands-on therapies such as acupuncture, massage, and chiropractic. This book makes applying these remedies and concepts very easy. Chapter 10 is devoted to the vaccination controversy, and there is another entire chapter discussing cancer and alternative treatments. From remedies I learned in this book, I avoided a visit to the emergency room and have dramatically improved the health of my immune-compromised puppy. This is a must have/must read!

Highlights

Interview with author, Allen Schoen, DVM, regarding cancer treatment gives a very complete view of the holistic approach. Discussion includes overview of allopathic treatment versus and in combination with holistic, and gives the readers the benefit of Dr. Schoen’s extensive and reassuring experience regarding the most feared diagnosis, cancer.

Constructive Criticism

None! This is my favorite book on alternative health care!

Excerpt

From the Foreward written by Beverly Cappel-King, DVM

“The fundamental driving force behind holistic health care is Mother Nature. The methods we use don’t heal our patients as much as they stimulate our patients to heal themselves. In the wild, animals know what herbs and grasses to eat, what prey to kill, when to rest and when to go without food. If you keep animals in their natural environment and let them live the way nature made them instead of filling them with drugs, they’ll figure out exactly what they need to do to stay healthy.”

“I hope The Encyclopedia of Natural Pet Care will inspire you to become more involved in your pets’ care, to improve their diet, to question and learn about every medical procedure that anyone, including a holistic veterinarian, recommends for them, to become actively involved in their care and to expect a lifetime of good health, glossy coats, bright eyes, strong bones, alert intelligence and calm dispositions in your furred and feathered companions.”

Rating

1-5 paws

5 paws is excellent!

5 paws

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New Freeze-Dried Meals & Treats from Only Natural Pet Store!

Only Natural Pet Store is excited to announce the addition of our new freeze-dried meals and treats! Freeze-Dried Fresh Filets and All Meat Bites are each made from free-range meats that were raised antibiotic and hormone-free. They’re grain-free too so they make a great option for pets with grain allergies.

Give your companion the benefits of a raw food diet without the mess or fuss with Only Natural Pet Freeze Dried Fresh Filets.

  • Freeze-dried patties
  • Made from free-range, antibiotic- and hormone-free meats
  • Same health benefits of a raw meat diet
  • Easy-to-serve portions in a resealable bag
  • NO grains, preservatives or fillers
  • Available in two flavors: Chicken with Organic Veggies and Beef

Treat your pet to the ultimate in pure, natural taste with Only Natural Pet Freeze Dried All Meat Bites.

  • Great as a training treat or crumbled food topper
  • No fillers or preservatives
  • From free-range meat sources
  • Grain-free & Gluten-free

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How to Switch Foods (Part 1 & II)

So, now that you’ve read the last two posts, you’re convinced! You’re going to change what your pet is eating. That’s great! But there are things you need to know to avoid trouble.

The first thing to remember when switching your pet’s diet is that time is on your side. Except in rare cases, it is not an urgent matter, and you can—and should—take plenty of time to make the change.

Take Your Time

Many pets are used to having food available day and night (often called a “free choice” or “free feeding” schedule). Their guardians may have tried switching; they put a bowl of new food down, the animal turns up its nose, and therefore they conclude that their pet is too finicky and “can’t” switch foods. This is faulty logic; and there are multiple reasons why it fails.

• These animals, especially cats, are never hungry enough to try anything new. What if your kid comes home from school, eats a package of cheese and crackers and a handful of cookies, then doesn’t want to eat broccoli at dinner? While I sympathize (I hate broccoli!), I am not surprised. There’s no motivation—in this case, the primary one needed is hunger!

• Many times an animal will be intrigued and eat the new food the first time or two, so you run out and buy three cases of it. Then they won’t eat it again. This is very common with cats. No one knows for sure why they do this, but it may be because variety is the very thing they’re craving—and now you’ve served the same thing three times in a row! Yuck!

• There is a vast difference between foods. If a pet has been eating inexpensive, high-carb dry food and suddenly switches to a grain-free dry, or to canned, this is a huge shift in protein, fat, and carbohydrate proportions, as well as very different quality ingredients. This can cause a seriously upset tummy.

The first step, for free fed pets, is to go to a timed meal schedule, where you leave the food out for an hour in the morning and again for an hour in the evening, but put it away the rest of the time. Believe me, your pet will not starve to death in 12 hours, or 14 hours, or even 18 hours if you have to work late. Now your pet will be hungry at meal time, and thus more willing to try new things. This is particularly critical when switching from dry to wet food with a finicky eater.

Carnivores typically eat until they’re full, and then sleep it off before going hunting again. This gives their tummies time to rest between meals. This may be an important factor in preventing intestinal problems such as Inflammatory Bowel Disease.

With a timed meal schedule, you don’t have to worry so much about restricting the amounts you feed (especially with wet food); most animals will eventually self-regulate very well on this schedule.

Easy Does It

When you decide to make the transition from one food to another, particularly dry food, plan ahead. You don’t want to run completely out of one food and just slap down a bowl of something new in front of Fluffy’s nose. The normal bacteria in the gut are keyed to one type of food, and it takes time for the populations to shift enough to efficiently digest a new food. A sudden switch can cause tummy upset, which can lead to rejection of the food, as well as extremely unpleasant messes in the house!

If adding canned food or switching from dry to canned, this is also the time for an abundance of caution. These two forms of food are so different, that it will take some getting used to on the part of your pet’s tummy.

Once canned food is a regular staple, it doesn’t seem to be a problem to change flavors as often as every meal.

With dry food, for most dogs a four or eight-day changeover works best. Young dogs usually adjust quickly; older dogs may need a little more time. For the first day (or two), feed 75 percent old food mixed with 25 percent new food. Then 50 percent each of old and new food, then 25 percent old food and 75 percent new food, and finally all new food. This gives the dog’s resident gut bacteria time to gear up to handle the new ingredients properly.

Many cat guardians have tried—and failed—to switch their cat to a better diet. A primary reason for that is the tendency of cats to turn their noses up at any new food. Cats often require more a more gradual (that is, sneaky) approach, with more intermediate stages over two to three weeks.

Next time, we’ll talk about what to do when your finicky eater refuses to touch a new food no matter what, and what to do if problems occur during the switch.

Special Tricks for Cats and Other Finicky Eaters

How to Switch Foods Part II…

“Dogs will eat anything.” That’s what I thought until I met Elvis, a husky-white shepherd mix. A pickier critter you never will find—he’d rather starve than eat anything he isn’t in the mood for. Elvis taught me that a dog can be as finicky as the most persnickety cat, so the following tips and tricks can be applied to dogs and cats alike.

Although it’s true for any species, it’s particularly true for cats that their food preferences are formed during kittenhood. In fact, many cats who have eaten only dry food their whole lives simply don’t recognize anything else as “food.” In any case, getting a fussy pet just to change brands or flavors can be a major challenge. Animals prefer routine and dislike change in general, and messing with their dinner habits may not be welcome. But it is almost always possible to convert a dog or cat to a better diet.

Planning and patience are the keys to a successful switch. Even if your pet is one that eats everything with gusto, bear in mind that changing too fast can cause big tummy upset—and plenty of business for the carpet cleaners!

If you’re adding raw food, or switching from dry to canned, homemade, or raw, use caution and go very slowly. These forms of food are so vastly different that it will take some serious getting used to on the part of your pet’s tummy. In the case of dry food, it may be easier to switch to canned food first, and then move to raw or homemade later, if you desire. Just getting a dry-food addict to eat a good quality canned food is a worthwhile improvement!

If your pet refuses to touch dry food with canned or raw mixed in, offer only the new food for the first half of the meal period before offering their normal food. Many pets will be hungry enough to at least taste it. (Remember that when dry food gets wet, surface bacteria will rapidly grow and can cause serious tummy upset; discard it after 20 minutes.) If that doesn’t work, try these tricks:

* Start with plain meat, without veggies or supplements.
* Lightly brown the meat.
* Sprinkle a handful of kibbles on top of the new food.
* Smear some meat baby food on top (favorites are chicken, turkey, and ham).
* Drizzle a little tuna juice or chicken stock over the new food.
* Try both chunky (slices, shreds, nuggets, etc.) and paté type canned foods.
* Try different flavors or different brands.
* Crush the dry food into crumbs. Make tiny, bite-sized meatballs of the new food, and roll them in the crumbs. For a cat or tiny dog, don’t overestimate–keep the meatballs itty bitty!
* Be patient!
* Don’t give up!

Flower essences can help your pet to keep an open mind and be more willing to try new things.

If you’re converting a cat, make sure he’s eating at least a little at each meal. If not, take a step backwards in terms of percentages, or offer his favorite food by itself. Cats (especially overweight cats) can get into big trouble if they miss even two or three meals—they can quickly develop hepatic lipidosis (fatty liver disease). It is expensive to treat, and not all cats survive.

Tummy Issues?

Many (if not most) animals will have a change in stool, even diarrhea, with a change of diet. As long as the animal is still eating well and acting fine, diarrhea is nothing to worry about; in fact, it’s pretty normal, and will often persist for a week or two. (CAUTION: If your pet has additional symptoms, such as lethargy, poor appetite, or persistent vomiting, stop the new food and contact your veterinarian; there may be something else going on.) There are several ways to prevent or resolve diarrhea due to diet change:

* Make the switch extra-slowly.
* Decrease the amount of new food and go back to a larger proportion of the old food.
* Add a digestive enzyme supplement. You can get one made for pets, or use a human version from the health food store. Plant-based enzymes work best for most pets, but some dogs do better with pancreatic extracts. The crucial enzymes are protease, lipase, amylase, and cellulase.

* Add probiotics and prebiotics. Probiotics are “friendly” bacteria such as L. acidophilus and Bifidobacterium bifidum that help balance the gut’s bacterial population. Prebiotics are special nutrients (oligosaccharides, such as Chicory or FOS) that keep the colon lining cells healthy.

There are also products that include a combination of enzymes, probiotics and/or prebiotics:

Following Up

For the first two weeks after completing the changeover to the new food, closely monitor your animal’s appetite, stool quality and energy level, and be alert for unusual symptoms-–itchiness, runny eyes, diarrhea-–that could be telling you the food is not right for him. (Of course, if you see problems earlier, stop the changeover and go back to the old food. Try another brand, or a more gradual switch.) Eventually, you’ll be able to settle on a reasonable assortment of different foods you can use in rotation.

Remember, variety is critically important in your pet’s diet. As tempting as it is to stick with one brand or recipe or flavor that your pet prefers, be sure to mix it up with different meats and veggies. This ensures that your pet is getting a good balance of nutrients, vitamins, and minerals.

As always, your companion’s skin and coat quality, energy and activity level, and appetite are the best indicators of whether the food is compatible with his system and providing ample nutrition.

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New Halo Spot’s Stew Dry Formula for Dogs & Cats!

Only Natural Pet Store is happy to introduce Halo Spot’s Stew Dry Formulas!

Finally, a dry food for dogs and cats good enough to be called “Spot’s Stew”. Created for all life stages, Halo blends a unique combination of proteins from meat or fish, eggs and vegetables for pure nutrition and easy digestibility.

  • No rendered meats or meals
  • Nothing artificial
  • No by-products
  • No fillers
  • No chemicals or preservatives

Click Here to View Halo Spot’s Stew Dry Food.

Halo also offers a complete line of pet care products for dogs and cats, all specifically created to achieve and maintain optimal health for your pet. They guarantee all their products will deliver noticeable results, or your money back!

Click Here to Check Out All Halo Products.

. . . and coming soon at Only Natural Pet Store. . . Ziwi Peak!

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New Senior Pet Products at Only Natural Pet Store

Only Natural Pet Store now offers two new products for senior pets and/or handicapped pets:

PetSTEP Portable Pet Ramp
Key to life-long joint health for active dogs of all ages, PetSTEP Pet Ramps prevent stress related injuries that can occur when pets jump down onto front legs.  PetSTEP Pet Ramps also offer compassionate assistance to rehabilitating and senior pets as well as those with special needs such as arthritis, dysplasia, weight issues, or travel reluctance.

SnuggEase Protective Dog Diapers
Dogs have a number of issues that cause them to lose control of their bladder. SnuggEase provides comfortable protection from both the embarrassment of unplanned discharges and from damaging a home with unwanted messes. Additionally, SnuggEase gives owners the peace of mind in case they are incapable of getting to their beloved pet in time to allow them to relieve themselves in their normal routine.

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Why Switch Foods? (Part 1 & II)

The spice of life is variety, or so they say. If that’s true for people, what about our dogs and cats?

Pet food company advertising would have you believe that feeding one food (theirs!) for your pet’s entire adult life is the way to go. But that concept is all wrong. When you really think about it, it doesn’t even make sense!

For many of us, our pets are our children. So let’s imagine for a moment that you have a child, let’s say a 2-year old boy named Junior (of course!), and let’s imagine taking him to the pediatrician for a check-up. The doctor bustles in, looks Junior over, then plunks a big bag of Yummi-o’s down on the exam table.

“Good news,” he beams. “All the vitamins, minerals and a perfect balance of nutrients that Junior needs are right here in New Complete Yummi-o’s. Now all you have to do is make sure Junior gets three servings every day.” The doctor wags his finger at you as he continues in a serious voice, “Now, since this food is perfectly complete and balanced, you mustn’t feed Junior anything else—no apples or oatmeal or broccoli or peanut-butter-and-jelly sandwiches—because you might cause a nutrient imbalance!”

Well, this sounds a little weird, but you trust the pediatrician—after all, it’s his name you see on all the gold-embossed university degrees on the exam room wall—so you go ahead and put Junior on an all-Yummi-o’s diet.

Time passes, Junior grows, and by golly, it sure is cheap, easy and convenient to feed him. The next year you bring him in for his checkup, and the doctor is very pleased.

“He looks great,” says the doc. “I see you’ve been keeping him on Yummi-o’s. Terrific! Now, I have more good news for you! Yummi-o’s now comes in Life Stages! You’ll keep him on Yummi-o’s Growth until he starts kindergarten. Then he’ll go on Elementary Yummi-o’s until he hits middle school. Then you give him Adolescent Yummi-o’s until he’s 18, when he can be weaned onto the Adult formula. And it gets even better—you can eat it too! New Improved Yummi-o’s is complete and balanced for adults up to 65 years old.”

Ridiculous? Of course! What rational parent would feed a child only one food for years on end? Even if the food were, in fact, complete and balanced, most of us would consider it unnatural, even cruel to the child. Never give Junior a carrot or a glass of orange juice? No fresh food at all? Preposterous!

Then why does everyone think it’s okay to feed a cat or dog that way?

We would think a pediatrician who recommended a single food diet for a child was bonkers, yet when the veterinarian recommends a single food for our pampered pet, we obey without question. But feeding a dog or cat is not all that different from feeding a child.

It’s way past time to bring a little common sense to bear, and common sense dictates that an animal ought to get a variety of foods.

The veterinary literature is full of cases where nutritional deficiencies (or excesses) were discovered, and in virtually every one, the problem arose (or was discovered) because the animal was kept on one food for a long period of time.

Cats, being strict obligate carnivores, have most often been the unintended victims—taurine, copper, vitamin E and potassium deficiencies have turned up in cats fed certain foods (which were, by the way, “complete and balanced” according to the standards at the time) as their sole diet.

Dogs, whose omnivorous metabolism is more adaptable, haven’t had quite as many problems, though zinc and fatty acid deficiencies have occurred on certain poor quality foods.

The Myth of Complete and Balanced

Wait a minute … aren’t we indeed talking about “complete and balanced” foods? How can a complete and balanced food have deficiencies or excesses of nutrients? Unfortunately, even for the best commercial pet foods, there are several places along the road to the retail store shelf where any food’s nutritional value can go astray.

1. The standards by which the food is made aren’t perfect. Pet nutrition is an evolving science, and we don’t yet know all there is to know about it (if we ever will!). Veterinarians have seen many examples of how the particular nutritional needs of a species become known—mainly by stumbling on cases where they aren’t being met.

2. The exact quantities of individual nutrients in a given ingredient may not be known, or may be inaccurately assessed. A shipment of barley might be presumed to have a certain nutritional composition based on analyses of previous batches, but depending on the weather where it was grown, the soil conditions, and the type of fertilizer used, the exact amounts of each nutrient may vary. The same applies to animal-based ingredients.

3. Ingredient quality may be inconsistent or unknown. A vitamin-mineral premix purchased from an outside supplier and added to the food may guarantee minimum levels of each item, but if the quality control on that product was poor, the finished pet food will merely compound the error. Many vitamins and minerals are normally “overdosed” in pet food to make up for loss of those nutrients during processing, transport and storage. Some of these may present a health risk. For instance, iodine excess in cat foods is suspected of contributing to the skyrocketing incidence of hyperthyroidism in older cats; and a zinc overdose in a commercial dog food sickened author Ann Martin’s dogs and started her on a quest through the maze of pet food manufacturing and regulation, detailed in her stunning book Food Pets Die For in 1997.

4. Processing alters many nutrients. The heat used in various stages of pet food manufacturing can alter many ingredients, some for the better and some for worse. Carbohydrates are made much more digestible by cooking, but proteins can be denatured, vitamins can be destroyed, and fats can be damaged by heat. In general, pet food manufacturers are aware of changes that occur in their products during processing, and compensate for heat-sensitive ingredients by adding supplements, such as extra vitamins, but alterations in proteins and fats are not generally accounted for.

5. The pet food manufacturer itself can make mistakes. It’s obvious from feed reports from around the country that virtually every manufacturer—no matter how good, bad or indifferent its reputation—at one time or another fails one or more tests for protein, calcium, magnesium or other nutrients.

6. Increased risk of toxic effects. As many people unfortunately discovered in last year’s recalls, feeding the same food, from the same manufacturer, who continually buys from the same suppliers, can lead to health problems for your animal companion. While some of the recalled foods had such huge amounts of melamine that even one serving was deadly, feeding a variety of foods could have “diluted” the effect of the toxin and caused less harm for thousands of pets.

Next time, we’ll talk about how periodically switching foods can prevent food allergies and finicky eating behavior.

Why Switch Food Part II…

In this post, we’ll continue our discussion about the reasons for periodically switching your pet’s food.

Let’s consider all the different kinds of pet food on the market. When I started veterinary school, there were basically two kinds of pet food: adult, and puppy or kitten (growth/lactation); “light” foods were just coming into the market, although there were no rules at the time about calories or fat content, so the claim was a little questionable.

But looking at dog food today, we find all-life-stages food, baby dog food, puppy food, adult food, mature food, aging food, senior food, food for sensitive stomachs, food for itchy skin, food for small, medium, large, and giant breed dogs, food for Yorkies and Dachshunds and Poodles and Bulldogs and Shih Tzus and Boxers and Retrievers, vegetarian food, high performance food, reduced calorie food, light food, and an array of veterinary diets for dogs with heart disease, kidney disease, liver disease, arthritis, digestive problems, cancer, diabetes, bladder stones, dandruff, and dirty teeth.

Cats, being more or less the same general size and shape, have been spared some of this, but recently a spate of new foods for indoor, outdoor, and specific breeds of cats has arrived on the market. And there are designer diets for hairball hurlers, happy bladders, and tartared teeth. And, of course, most of the veterinary diets available for dogs have a feline counterpart.

However, the standards for pet food nutrient levels remain the same today as they were when they were set in 1989 (for dogs) and 1991 (for cats). There is one chart for adult maintenance, and one chart for growth/lactation. (Food intended to treat disease must provide documentation to FDA that it actually works as advertised, but the research is done by the company making the food-–and the claim.) New standards for dog and cat nutrition were just recently published by the National Research Council, but it will likely take several years before they are reviewed and accepted by AAFCO. Until that happens, pet food manufacturers don’t have to abide by them.

Is There Really a Difference?

Is it just me, or is something wrong with this picture? How much different are these foods really from each other—given that they all have to meet the same nutritional standards? For instance, if you look at the ingredient statements on the labels of regular versus large breed foods, they look pretty similar. In any case, the exact nutritional requirements of hundreds of breeds (and infinite combinations of breeds), every imaginable lifestyle, and each animal’s individual metabolism simply cannot be accurately known, at least not with current technology.

Moreover, even an individual animal’s needs fluctuate, depending on the season, activity level, normal variations in hormone levels and organ functions, infections, parasites like fleas, illness, and a host of other factors. A dog who spends a lot of time outdoors in Colorado may need a higher calorie/higher fat food in the winter to cope with the cold, but unless she is extremely active in warmer weather, such a food may put on the pounds if fed year-round. It does make sense to try to match the food to your animal’s particular needs as those needs vary, although whether you can really do this based solely on a manufacturer’s claims for its food is unlikely.

The Allergy Factor

Another pitfall of feeding a single food is the potential for your animal to develop an intolerance or allergy to one or more ingredients. A dietary intolerance is a reaction to something in the food, rather than the food itself.

The list of suspects is a long one and includes flavoring agents, coloring agents, emulsifiers, humectants, stabilizers, thickeners, texturizers, and dozens more. Different manufacturers use different additives, so changing foods periodically may avoid constant exposure to certain ingredients that could become a problem for your animal.

True food allergies are thought to be uncommon (though more common in cats than dogs), but many practitioners and veterinary nutritionists are coming to the conclusion that most, if not all, cases of inflammatory bowel disease are linked to food.

It usually takes months to years of exposure to a food to develop an allergy. Allergies are usually to proteins, which are found in animal products, of course, but also in to some extent in the cereal grains commonly used in pet food. Corn meal (also known as ground yellow corn) contains 9 percent protein, soybean flour contains 37 percent protein, and wheat contains 10 percent protein. Corn and wheat are very common allergens in pets.

Switching foods every three or four months, from chicken-and-corn, to lamb-and-rice or turkey-and-barley or duck-and-green peas or rattlesnake-and-quinoa may help prevent your animal companion from becoming food-allergic in the first place. (But remember to carefully check the ingredient list on the package-–a food legitimately labeled “emu-and-amaranth” could actually consist mainly of corn and chicken.)

A Matter of Taste

The last big reason to change foods periodically is to prevent finicky eating habits and enable the gut to handle challenges without catastrophic consequences.

Pet food makers are masters at making the food irresistibly tasty. Consequently, an animal fed a single food may become “addicted” to it. I once got a call from a woman whose cat would not only eat just one flavor of cat food, but it had to have been canned at a particular factory! Cans of the same flavor with a different code stamp were rejected by the cat. She was frantically searching from coast to coast to find more cans from that factory—which had since closed down.

Some foods are produced on a “least cost” basis, and the ingredients may change significantly from batch to batch. “Fixed formula” foods always use the same ingredients. Depending on ingredient quality, such a food may be a better pick. But even fixed formula foods that use the same ingredients all the time may still periodically alter certain characteristics, such as size of the kibble, or flavoring components.

When you buy a new bag of the same food, it could be just different enough from the usual fare that your furry friend will turn up her nose at it. Or you might run out of her favorite food and not be able to get over to the gourmet pet store right away—she’ll just have to eat something from the grocery store for a few days. If you board her, she may get fed whatever the kennel is using (errors can be made, even if you supply your own food).

It’s best to have your animal companion develop more “cosmopolitan” tastes, and be willing to eat whatever you give her. (For some dogs in some situations, training to accept food only from you can and should be done, but that’s an issue beyond the scope of this blog.)

Next time, we’ll get to the nuts and bolts of how to make the switch. The first word of caution: too radical or too abrupt a switch could cause your pet stress and tummy upset. On the bright side, it could keep your local carpet cleaning company busy!

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Taking Care of the Liver

The liver is one of the most important organs in the body. It is a crucial part of the digestive system, as well as playing a role in the immune system. Most blood from the intestinal tract is routed through the liver for detoxification. The liver can operate effectively with only 20% of its cells working, so it has a large reserve capacity. Without the liver, the body is doomed within days. But the good news is that, with proper support, the liver can completely regenerate itself after injury or disease. These traits make the liver truly remarkable; and mean that even serious liver disease is survivable and has a much better prognosis than similar damage to other organs.

The liver is also one of the few organs with key differences between dogs and cats. The dog’s liver is very similar to that of humans and other mammals. However, a cat’s liver contains fewer metabolic enzymes and has a diminished ability to handle toxins. The development of liver disease is also due to different causes between dogs and cats. In dogs, liver failure is commonly due to congenital problems, traumatic injury, infections, or other disease. Cats, on the other hand, can develop liver disease not only from infection or trauma, but also from seemingly minor stresses, such as not eating enough for whatever reason.

Keeping the Liver Healthy.
Preventing liver disease is a whole lot easier than curing it. A high-quality diet, including at least some wet food for both dogs and cats, is the first and most basic step. Additionally, there are herbal and nutritional supplements that can support and strengthen the liver so that it can handle damage and disease more efficiently. Supportive supplements with specific benefits for the liver include:

Probiotics to balance the digestive system
Only Natural Pet Probiotic Blend
Animal Essentials Plant Enzymes
Pet Naturals Digest Support for Cats and Dogs

Antioxidants to prevent and reduce inflammation
Only Natural Pet Whole Food Antioxidant Blend
Vetri-Science Antiox

Omega-3 fatty acids, such as those found in fish oil, also have strong anti-inflammatory properties.
Only Natural Pet Wild Alaskan Salmon Oil
 

Co-Enzyme Q10 to enhance cellular metabolism and prevent the formation of damaging oxygen free radicals. It is best absorbed in an oil formulation, such as:
Vetri-Science CoQsol

General support for liver health and nose-to-tail wellness. If you want keep things simple and give just one terrific supplement to your pet, these products contain milk thistle, taurine, antioxidants, digestive enzymes, and Omega-3 fatty acids, along with important vitamins and minerals:

Only Natural Pet Super Daily Canine Senior
Only Natural Pet Super Daily Feline Senior
 

Supplementing your pet’s diet with a portion of cooked organic calves’ or chicken liver once or twice a week will provide all the ingredients needed to keep the liver in good repair. It’s important to buy it fresh and organic because the liver is the body’s main detoxifying organ, and there may be stored toxins in non-organic that could harm your pet.

If Your Pet is Sick.
In dogs with liver disease, a precise diagnosis is important. This usually involves blood tests, and possibly also ultrasound or even biopsy of the liver. Different causes need different treatment. For example, in a puppy with a liver shunt (an abnormal blood vessel that bypasses the important detoxification processes of the liver), a high protein diet—which is normally fine for the liver—could be deadly. Cats have a less diverse potential problem list, mostly involving either inflammation or hepatic lipidosis (fatty liver disease). Signs are similar, and treatment in cats nearly always comes down to: “feed the liver,” although specific treatment with antibiotics or anti-inflammatory drugs may be needed, depending on the cause of the problem. Unfortunately, feeding an animal with liver disease both crucial and difficult, since these pets tend to not want to eat at all. Force-feeding or even surgical placement of a feeding tube may be necessary components of treatment. Just mix the supplements with a little blenderized canned food, and force-feed the mixture by syringe or via tube. Here are a few tips to make this process easier:

  • Mix up the whole day’s worth of food in the morning, with all the supplements in it.
  • Set aside a portion for the first feeding, and put the remainder in the refrigerator.
  • For subsequent feedings, take out the appropriate portion, mix a little hot water in to warm and soften it, and you’re ready to go.

The herb milk thistle is an important healer for the liver in times of stress or disease. It protects the liver from toxins and helps it regenerate.
The active ingredient of milk thistle, “silymarin,” reaches high levels in the bile and liver tissue. It can be used in the treatment of hepatic lipidosis, chronic hepatitis (generalized liver inflammation), cholangitis (inflammation of the bile ducts), and pericholangitis (inflammation of the tissue around the bile ducts). It may be useful in preventing or treating some liver problems, as well as gallstones, by thinning the bile.
It is very safe. You can give up to 250 mg of milk thistle daily for every 10 pounds of your pet’s body weight. It is most effective when given in smaller portions throughout the day than in one big dose. Two of our favorite milk thistle products are:

Super Milk Thistle X
Only Natural Pet Liv-Herb Herbal Formula

Omega-3 fatty acids can be given at higher doses for a sick animal. Give 2 or 3 times the normally recommended amount; up to 3,000 mg per day for a large dog.

Carnitine, an amino acid, is extremely important for cats with hepatic lipidosis, but is helpful for all dogs and cats, especially those who eat a lot of high-carbohydrate dry food. Give 250-500 mg/day for a cat. Carnitine is also important for heart muscle function in both dogs and cats. Our highest potency products are:

Vetri-Science Cardio-Strength



Vitaline L-Carnitine

A pet with liver disease needs professional care from your veterinarian, but you can greatly help the healing process with the right supplements, and of course plenty of TLC!

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Natural Care for Joints and Aging Pets

Supporting Your Aging Companion
Aging is a natural part of life. Rather than being anxious about our companion’s declining abilities, we can be proactive in preventing or delaying the onset of age related disease. Weight management, dental health, joint care, attention to food and a comfortable and well padded bed are of utmost importance in determining how well your companion will age.
Click here to read our article Supporting Your Aging Companion

 Joint Support & Arthritis
Joint disorder is one of the top chronic conditions affecting pets, yet less than 15% of them actually receive care. This drastically reduces the quality of life for the animal. The most common causes for unhealthy joints are injury, repeated stress, excess weight, poor diet, and genetic predisposition. There are effective treatment and preventive options available and significant differences among them.
Click here to learn more Natural Alternatives for Arthritis & Joint Stiffness

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Leba III Dental Spray at Only Natural Pet Store

Leba III Dental Spray is now available at Only Natural Pet Store!

LEBA III balances the chemistry of the mouth keeping the teeth clean and healthy for the entire life of your pet, without side effects. How does it work? Leba III stimulates the enzymes changing the chemistry in the mouth. This softens the tartar and eventually, after a few weeks, causes the tartar to fall off.

Leba III, which had a 100% response in double blind testing, keeps your dog’s teeth clean with just 1-2 sprays at morning and 1-2 sprays at night. Click here for the double blind test results.

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The Role of Protein in Good Nutrition

By: Melissa Grosjean

Protein is arguably the most important component of your dog or cat’s diet, and is often the most hotly debated aspect of pet foods.  What is the best source of protein for dogs?  For cats?  How much protein should be in the diet and can you feed too much of it?  How can you tell which foods have better protein sources?  What about pets with food allergies?  It’s a lot to ponder and leaves many guardians frustrated and confused about which of the seemingly endless variety of pet foods they should feed their companion.

During the last 5 to 10 years the rapid growth of the natural pet foods market has significantly expanded the viable feeding options for responsible pet owners, but having more choices does not generally make a decision easier.  On the contrary, the more options available, the more difficult the choice becomes.  In this article, we will help make that decision a little easier for you by discussing one of the key factors influencing pet food evaluation – proteins.

Evaluating Protein Sources

A protein molecule is made up of chains of amino acids.  Different sources of protein contain different combinations of the 22 or so amino acids.  Of these amino acids, 10 are considered “essential” amino acids; because dogs and cats cannot make them on their own, these particular amino acids must be present in the diet.  When a dog or cat consumes protein, it gets broken down during the digestive process into its individual amino acids.  Those amino acids are then reassembled into the building blocks of body tissues such as skin, hair, muscles, and organs.  Amino acids are also utilized to produce metabolic enzymes that are necessary for many bodily functions including the regulation of antibodies within the immune system and the transfer of nerve impulses.

Protein from animal sources contains the most complete and most easily digested and assimilated amino acids for dogs and cats.  Animal proteins are not only more bio-available and contain a wider array of amino acids – both essential on non-essential, they are also more palatable for you companion.  The biological value of a protein is determined by how readily the amino acids broken down and used by the body.  For dogs and cats, egg whites are at the top of the list with a biological value of 100, followed by muscle meat (beef, chicken, lamb) at 92, and organ meats at 90.  Wheat and corn are way down the list with biological values of 60 and 54.  Cooking meat at the high temperatures required for canned foods and kibble reduces it’s biological value, providing another reason to include raw or less processed foods in your companion’s diet such as freeze dried or dehydrated meals.

When evaluating the protein source on a bag of kibble, keep in mind that whole meats, such as an ingredient listed as “chicken” or “beef,” contain 75% water.  So if a whole meat is listed first, the next ingredient should be a specific meat meal to insure the protein in the food is from animal sources, not grains (i.e. chicken meal or beef meal, not generic “meat meal” or by-product meals).  The top-quality pet foods on the market use USDA sources (human grade) for their meat meals.  If the ingredient lists “chicken” first followed by grains or grain by-products, you can be sure that much of the protein in the food comes from the grains and is less bio-available to your pet.  Trying to force carnivores to derive their amino acid requirements from grain sources is one of the main contributors to the pet obesity epidemic facing our dogs and cats today.

Which Meat is Best?

Is chicken the best protein for cats?  Is beef best for dogs, or is lamb better?  While there are strong opinions among pet enthusiasts about the answers to those questions, the real answer is – it completely depends on your individual cat or dog.  Some research, specifically that of William Cusick, suggests that dogs do better on a diet and protein source that most closely matches that of their ancestors: the food that was available in the region in which the breed developed.  For example: Border Collies would eat lamb, fish and poultry as they originated in Scotland where these were staples in the diet.  The Greyhound, originating in Egypt, would eat rabbit, pork, poultry and goat.  German Shepherds would be fed beef, as they were originally bred in the Alsation Region of Germany.

While breed specific guidelines may be helpful for some dogs, for many dogs their heritage is quite unknown.   For another large group of dogs (and cats), food allergies will determine which protein sources are best, (see Novel Proteins below).  Cats on the other hand, are assumed to have all developed on a similar diet of rodents – specifically mice, birds and the occasional rabbit.  So which meat is best?  In the absence of food sensitivities or allergies, the answer is “at least three different ones.”  Rotation insures a broader nutritional base over time and helps reduce the incidence of food sensitivities and allergies.  Many dogs and cats fed the same food for years on end will develop signs of intolerance such as itchy skin or paws, or chronic digestive problems such as gas, loose stools or frequent vomiting.  Rotating between at least three or four different foods with different protein sources, and preferably from a variety of manufactures, provides the ideal answer to “Which food is THE best for my companion.”  Only you and your companion can really determine what is best by trying various high-quality foods and choosing those that your dog or cat thrives on.

How Much is Too Much Protein?

With the growing popularity of grain-free and low carbohydrate foods in recent years we hear more questions from owners concerned about feeding too much protein.  One reason for this question is the lingering myth that too much protein in the diet can cause kidney disease – especially in older animals.  Nutritional research has disproved this falsehood, but still it lives on.  This myth originated when veterinarians began to put animals with kidney disease on low-protein diets to minimize nitrogen levels.  Today, holistic veterinarians, and increasingly even traditional veterinarians, are suggesting a diet for animals with kidney disease containing higher quality protein that is more digestible rather than low-protein foods.  The better quality the protein, the less waste produced through digestion creating less work for the kidneys and lower nitrogen levels in the body.

Excess protein in a healthy dog or cat’s diet would typically be either excreted in the urine, used as energy, or converted to fat.  The one precaution when feeding a higher protein food is watching how much you feed so as not to allow your pet to gain weight.  So the answer to “How much protein is too much?” is dependent on your individual cat or dog; his metabolism, activity level and lifestyle.  If your feline friend spends most of the day on the window sill and rarely plays, feed her less of the same food you feed her brother who chases anything that moves and runs up and down the stairs a dozen times a day.  They both can thrive on a high-quality, high-protein diet, they just require different quantities of the food.

Growing puppies and kittens, as well as pregnant and lactating animals and working animals require more protein than normal adult animals.  Most of the premium pet foods provide adequate fat and protein levels for their needs provided they are fed larger portions for their size.  Adding fresh meat or grain-free canned foods to some meals is a good way to provide extra protein.

Novel Proteins

When food allergies are suspected, a dog or cat is often put on a diet consisting of a “novel” protein and carbohydrate.  A novel protein is simply one that your dog or cat has never been exposed to.  Lamb and rice foods were originally formulated to meet this need.  The idea became so popular, however, and so many manufactures jumped on the lamb and rice bandwagon that most dogs and many cats have eaten lamb at some point in their life.  Pet food companies seeing the growing market for such unique foods continue to produce “allergy formula” foods with ever more exotic sources of protein.  Venison, duck, rabbit, herring, and even kangaroo can be found among the formulations available for food sensitive dogs and cats.  This makes providing variety in the diet a little easier, but be careful not to feed every protein available or you may run out of options should the need ever arise to put your companion on a restricted, novel protein diet.

When searching for a novel protein food for your companion, read labels carefully.  Many canned foods and kibble will bear a name suggesting a novel protein, but upon reading the ingredients you may find another protein listed such as eggs or chicken.  Look for food specifically designed for the sensitive pet such as California Natural canned and kibble, Wellness Simple Foods, Natural Balance Allergy Formulas, or Wysong Anergen.  Better yet, choose a pre-mix such as Sojo’s, Honest Kitchen Preference or Dr. Harvey’s and add your own protein source – either fresh or canned.  Several companies offer 100% canned meats in a variety of novel proteins including beaver, turkey, duck and venison tripe from Canine Caviar. Evanger’s offers pheasant, rabbit and duck. Innova EVO offers duck and venison.  Of course, some ingredients in the pre-mixes may contribute to allergies as well, such as alfalfa or some grains, so if a true novel diet is required cooking sweet potatoes or rice to combine with a novel protein may be safer.

To truly determine if the restricted diet is helping you may need to keep your dog or cat on this single protein diet for up to 12 weeks, however, progress is sometimes seen within 4 to 8 weeks.  Once a food tolerance is established, however, find at least one and preferably two other protein sources that can also be tolerated for rotational feeding.  A dog or cat that has developed an allergy to one protein is more susceptible to developing additional sensitivities, so rotation in their diet is important.

When feeding a restricted diet to a food-sensitive pet, don’t forget to read the labels on treats, too.   Plato Smart Treats are loved by dogs and cats alike, and offer single-protein varieties including duck, salmon and kangaroo for those on restricted diets.  Many of the all-meat freeze dried treats fit the bill for sensitive pets as well. Only Natural Pet Venison Jerkey Bites or Bison Strips are also single-meat treat options.

Some dogs and many cats may have grain allergies rather than, or in addition to, protein allergies.  The increase in the availability of grain-free foods makes feeding these individuals much less problematic than it was a few years ago.  The down side to the influx of grain-free foods seems to be the trend to include combinations of more uncommon or exotic meats in these formulas including buffalo, venison, duck and salmon in combinations with each other or with more common meats such as chicken, turkey beef or lamb.  Should an animal on these diets become sensitive or allergic, the search for a novel protein becomes much more difficult.

Summary

Nutrition is the cornerstone of health, and high-quality protein is a critical part of proper nutrition.  Read labels carefully to insure the protein your dog or cat is receiving is from meat, not grains.  The best diet for your companion depends on their individual needs, but will ultimately include a variety of protein sources and optimally at least some portion of fresher, less processed foods.  If allergies or sensitivities become an issue, read labels carefully and pick a truly novel diet for the initial restricted diet.  Feeding too much protein is rarely an issue, but feeding too much food is – keep portions appropriate to each animal’s activity level and metabolism to avoid weight gain.

Resources and Helpful Links

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